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D.   Home insulation vs energy conservation practices

Conserving energy is to maximize the gains while minimizing the energy losses. Energy gain is made through the heat produced within the house by people, lighting and appliances. A person gives off the heat equivalent of a 100-watt light bulb. Energy is gain from sunlight entering through windows; a south-facing window can gain more heat than it loses. The furnace supplies the bulk of the heatig.

The largest source of heat  loss in a typical house is uncontrolled air leakage. Heat is loss by:

a)    Conduction:    heat is transferred through the building material, such as basement walls;
b)    Convection:    heat is transmitted by the movement of air or water, such as air leakage around windows and doors; and
c)    Radiation:    heat is transferred through and intermediate space, such as heat from an oil stove or sunlight through a window.

Home insulation materials are rated by R-value (resistance to heat flow) per unit thickness. There are many types available such as rigid, loose-fill, batt, etc.  Each type has specific applications for which it is best suited. Insulation is also rated by its RSI-value. RSI values indicate thermal resistance in metric terms while R-values represent Imperial measurements. The higher the resistance value, the slower the rate of heat transfer through the insulating material.

The amount and type of insulation being used vary according to the amount of space and money available. Some general rules should be followed:

a)    fill cavities or gaps completely to prevent air circulation;
b)    there should be no points of contact from the inside to the outside to prevent heat from travelling across these points and short circuit the insulation; these points are called thermal bridges; wood studs can act as thermal bridges;
c)    let the outside of the wall to breath through to the outdoors; the outer surface should be water-resistant but not air-tight;
d)    protect insulation from moisture with an air-vapour barrier; and
e)    do not compress batts, or loose fill insulation to get more into the space; it will not increase the RSI-value.

To be effective, insulation must be able to fill the space completely and evenly, resistant to heat flow, able to withstand heat and moisture, resist air movement, act as an air barrier, and durable.

An air-vapour barrier must be built to protect the structure of the house from potential damage caused by water vapour condensing in insulated walls and ceilings, and seal the house against the leakage of cold winter air to the inside and the escape of heated air to the outside. The best material is 6 mil polyethylene and is installed on the warm side of the insulation.

There are numerous products and home improvement measures designed to save quantities of energy and money. There are also easy-to-implement energy savings measures which require only small investments which will pay for themselves in energy savings in less than a year.

Air leakage is a major source of heat loss in a house, and it can easily be reduced. Sealing all the gaps and cracks can reduce your heating fuel bill by 20% to 30% . Look for caulking materials that are durable and flexible.

The caulking material should be flexible because of the constant shrinkage and expansion of the wood in the home. Subtract the cost of materials from the savings made in heating bills.
 
D.        Home insulation vs energy conservation practices

D.1        Walls and Ceilings

____1.    Do you choose glass fibre or cellulose insulation so as to avoid insulation products that are environmentally damaging (CFCs used as a foaming agent in insulation contribute to stratospheric Ozone depletion, HCFCs are greenhouse gases contributing to global warming as CO2 does)?
____2.    Having applied caulking compound any place where there is a crack or gap, spaces where the wall meets masonry or brick (in order to prevent a possible build-up of  moisture and frost inside the wall space, caulking should be applied on the inside surface; only large gaps on the outside should be caulked to prevent driving rain from entering the wall)?
____3.    Are the joist header spaces insulated and sealed (the gap between the top of the basement wall and subfloor)?
____4.    Have you sealed air leaks through electrical outlets using a CSA approved wall receptacle gasket (these gaskets are placed behind the plastic cover to help seal drafts)?
____5.    Do you make use minimum amounts of insulation in walls (R12), and in ceilings (R28)?
____6.    Was the insulation installed on the cold sides of the pipes within the walls (this will protect the pipes from freezing)?
____7.    Do you use either:
                a)    fiberglass insulation, RSI 0.022/mm(R 3.17/inch) in your attic, between roof rafters, in wall cavities, as interior or exterior wall insulation, and in basement (in batt form or rigid insulation);
                b)    cellulose, RSI 0.024/mm(R 3/inch) in attic and in wall cavities (usually blown or poured into place); or
                c)    rigid insulation, RSI 0.027 to 0.045/mm(R 4 to 8/inch) on your exterior of basement walls.
____8.    Do you have a proper air-vapour barrier in your walls and ceilings?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

D.2        Doors and Windows

____1.    Do you have a double-glazed windows (single glazed windows lose about 12 times as much heat as an insulated wall of the same area; double-glazing windows can save 3.6 cubic meters of natural gas or 4.5 liters of heating oil per day, and they reduce heat loss by 50% over single glass windows)?
____2.    Do you use window blinds made with layers of aluminum, fiberglass, cloth or venyl, to reduce heat loss by 50% over single glass windows)?
____3.    Have you applied caulking compound where there is a crack or gap, spaces where the wall meets masonry or brick, plus door and window frames?
____4.    Do you use tight fitting glass doors to reduce the amount of escaping house air through the fireplace for periods when not in use?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

D.3        Attic

____1.    Is the attic hatch insulated and weather stripped?
____2.    Is the attic well insulated?
____3.    Are the holes where exhaust fans, ducts, electrical wiring or plumbing stacks enter the attic space, sealed with caulking compound and polyethylene (if moist, warm air is allowed to enter the cooler attic space the moisture will condense and cause dampness or frost problems)?
____4.    Have the gaps around chimneys or gas vents been sealed (an approved fire stop metal flange should be installed and sealed to the chimney or vent with a heat resistant caulking compound)?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

D.4        Roof

The roof is a major area of heat loss. It is, therefore, one of the first parts of a building that should be designed for energy conservation. The design of roofs involve decreasing  air leakage, adding insulation and improving ventilation so that heat loss is reduced. Each home has a different roof design: flat, low-sloping or cathedral roofs.

Moisture damage from rain and snow on the outside and excess humidity on the inside can lead to a rapid deterioration of the wooden frame of the roof.

Roof designs may also be renovated. Even the smallest renovation may allow you to develop a more energy-efficient home. Some houses which have undergone a complete renovation with attention to energy conservation have had their fuel bills reduced as much as to 90 percent. Energy conservation provides returns beyond a reduced fuel bill. Itreduces dependence on improved energy sources, reduces environmental disruption, and the home is more comfortable to live in.

____1.    Have you weatherstripped and insulated your attic hatch?
____2.    Is the space between the joists filled with insulation (once the insulation is in place, install a 0.15 mm polyethylene vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation and then add the ceiling finish; there should be free air movement over the insulation so build a 75 mm air space between the top of the insulation and the underside of the roof)?
____3.    Have you filled the roof space with loose-fill insulation (use cellulose if the roof space does not exceed 300 mm; cellulose fibre is blown to a density of 56 kg/m3  to 64 kg/m3)?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

D.5        Basement

____1.    Is the space between the sill plate and the foundation caulked and sealed all around the house (there should be no air leakage where the exterior wall meets the top of the basement walls or the foundation; a caulking compound such as acrylic or ruberized compounds will adhere to both the concrete and wood)?
____2.    Are the header spaces stuffed with insulation?
____3.    Are basement holes as dryer vents, plumbing to outside taps, and electrical outlets, sealed with caulking compounds?
____4.    Do you make sure minimum amounts of insulation are in the basement (R12)?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

D.6        Garage

____1.    If your garage is heated, is it well insulated (as well as your house)?
____2.    If you have an insulated attached garage, are the walls and ceiling between it and your house insulated?

Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

D.7        Fireplace

____1.    Is the opening of the fireplace sealed when not in use?
____2.    Is there a chimney cap damper installed on your chimney (it will reduce air leakage when the fireplace is not in use; it is operated from the inside)?
____3.    Have you installed tight-fitting glass doors to allow for controlled entry of combustion air to the fireplace (loose-fitting doors or a poor seal around the frame will do little to reduce heat losses; as an alternative to glass doors you may block the opening with a cover when the fireplace is not in use; an insulated cover or acrylic sheet, if tight-fitting at the edges, will reduce air lost up the chimney)?
____4.    Have you installed a duct, with an operable tight-fitting damper, to bring cold outside air to feed the fire (the duct should run from outside to a location directly in front of the fire box; this duct system will reduce the loss of heated house air significantly)?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

D.8        Weather Stripping

____1.    Are the mail chutes, pet doors, milk boxes, and basement doors well sealed and airtight?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5


 

D.9        Hot Water Tank and Pipes

____1.    Is there an extra layer of 8 cm foil-faced insulation around the hot water tank (wrap the insulation, foil facing out, around the tank and seal the joints with duct tape)?
____2.    Are the hot water pipes insulated?

 
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

E.   Thermal comfort

 

E.        Thermal comfort

Temperature and humidity have direct effect on comfort and health. Thirty degree Celsius is comfortable to most people if the humidity is very low, but twenty degree Celsius feels hot if the air is humid. For this reason we must rely on a graph of temperature versus relative humidity to determine a zone for best comfort and health. The best range of relative humidity is between 40% and 60%. It is best for health and comfort, perspiration will not readily collect, fungus growth and the spread of bacteria will not go on, and building materials, fabrics and furnishings will be least affected.

Relative humidity (R.H. %) is the percentage of the maximum capacity of air to carry water at any given temperature. Saturated air has a 100 % R.H. The capacity of air to carry water is dependent on its temperature. Cool air has the least capacity to carry water, while warm air has the greatest. Now air in the home will contain more or less humidity than outside air depending on the amounts of:

*    evaporation of water from our bodies and from cooking, bathing, washing, and breathing;
*    heating or cooling of air taking place in the home;
*    ventilation, especially in the kitchen and bathrooms; and
*    vapor sealing, weatherstripping in the structure, and insulation.

A well sealed, insulated, and ventilated (both naturally and mechanically) home with a well design heating and cooling system will bring to the home comfort, health, and significant financial benefits.

Condensation occurs when warm moisture-laden indoor air meets a surface cold enough to draw the moisture from the air. Moisture can damage window frames, walls and ceiling materials and create rot problems and highly allergenic fungi.
 

E.1    Temperature and relative humidity in the home

____1.    Have you stopped using humidifiers with a water filled pan or reservoir connected to a wick to add moisture to the air by evaporation (these parts become a breeding place for airborne microorganisms which create illness such as the legionnaires diseases)?
____2.    Do you have good insulation of roof and walls, complete air and vapor sealing of all areas, and weatherstripping to reduce the demand for heating in the winter time and to minimize condensation (moisture will be driven out by heating in the winter time, and will seep in when cooling in the summer time; a poorly sealed home being heated by a warm air furnace in the winter time is most likely to have a dry air problem because the outdoor air contains only a small amount of moisture when below freezing and the heating of this air increases its capacity to carry moisture, thus decreasing its R.H.)?
____3.    Do you make use of a radiant system to minimize dryness problems in the winter time (radiant heating systems are significantly better than forced air systems)?
____4.    Is the kitchen well ventilated?
____5.    Do you make use of house fans in the washrooms?
____6.    If you make use of an electrostatic humidifier, do you regularly clean and drain the water reservoir to remove any deposits, change filter cartridges, and do you use distilled water to eliminate the build-up of fine white powder?
____7.    Do you protect the bathroom against humidity with waterproof drywall, and a couple of coats of an oil-based paint or vinyl wallpaper?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

E.2        Heating systems and their health and environmental problems

Your heating system must provide you a high level of comfort at an affordable price and so, its design, selection and installation must be given full consideration as the remaining of the home is being designed. Heating systems are a vital part of every home, providing comfortable temperatures during cold and hot weather throughout the year. In Alberta, Canada, over 90% of these systems are fueled with natural gas. Manufacturers of heating systems equipment have developed energy-efficient equipment which can significantly reduce annual heating bills.

Other factors that can affect your annual heating costs are: house size, insulation levels, construction quality, and lifestyle. Over 85% of the homes in Alberta has a central forced-air system whereby heat is delivered to the house by circulating warm air. Forced-air circulation provides fresh air throughout the home. If the furnace has a two speed fan, the low speed can be used year round to maintain humidity and air freshness, and air can be filtered to a high level using an electronic filter. On the other hand, radiant heating systems provide a high degree of comfort, are clean and quiet, low maintenance, possibility for individual room control, and take-up less room.

Forced-air heating systems have large ducts and furnace, are noisy, need monthly maintenance, and cause more drafts. Radiant systems have a heat distribution problems, are more expensive to operate, and it is more expensive and difficult to add air conditioning.

Other homes have room-to-room convectors, woodstoves or infloor heating and rely on radiation and convection to circulate the heat. Combination hydronic and forced-air systems give high-efficiency (90 to 95 %) gas furnaces and boilers.

Maximizing the efficiency of your heating system, and its safety, should be your first concerns. Maximum heat must be obtained out of the system while ensuring its safe operation. Higher efficiencies can be achieved by:

*    Changing the system to allow it to operate more efficiently;
*    Getting the right size furnace for your home; and
*    Proper operation and maintenance: a complete annual tune-up; reducing heat losses; lowering thermostat settings; furnace servicing involves replacing or cleaning filters, lubricating the moving parts, checking safety controls.

Lowering the temperature setting of the thermostat by one degree will save approximately three percent of your fuel bill. A proper house insulation will allow you to lower the thermostat by 2 C with no change of comfort. Automatic set-back thermostats will lower the setting at night and raise it just before getting up in the morning. Make sure the thermostat is located on an inside wall where it is not affected by cold drafts, the heat from appliances, the sun or lights.

Furnaces should be expected to last 15 to 20 years, boilers slightly longer. For safety reasons, any problem that allow combustion gases to escape into the home must be remedied immediately to avoid dangerous health and safety problems.
 

E.3        Passive solar heating

____1.    Are the heat storage materials safe and accessible (better use ceramic tile, concrete or brick walks and floors)?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

E.4        Hot water radiant

____1.    Are the heated surfaces outgasing contaminants (the piping system may use toxic antifreeze solutions) which can be easily ventilated out?
____2.    Do you clean the dust from around the radiators?
____3.    At the beginning of the heating season, do you bleed air from the radiator (open the air release valve on the radiator until the water starts to flow)?
____4.    Have you obtained maximum efficiency with your system (the hot water, or a mixture of water and ethylene glycol, is generated by a boiler which may give a seasonal efficiency of 60 to 65 percent, and may be upgraded by adding electronic ignition and a flue damper, to obtain an efficiency of 75%)?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

E.5        Electric radiant

____1.    Are the heated surfaces outgasing contaminants which can be easily ventilated out?
____2.    Is the radiant far enough to the people living in the home that it will never become a potential electromagnetic pollution?
____3.    Have you insulated behind radiators located against uninsulated exterior walls (insulate with foil-faced rigid insulation boards)?
____4.    Have you bled air from the air valve in the radiators until there is a steady stream of water?
____5.    Have you adjusted the water valves to balance the heat to different parts of the house.?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

E.6        Individual Heat Pumps

Heat pumps can provide both winter space heating and summer air conditioning. A typical system consists of a heat pump located on the outside of the home, and a furnace and hot water tank inside. The heat pump uses electrical energy to capture thermal energy.

A heat pump is a machine that absorbs heat energy from a cooler space (heat source) and delivers it to a warmer space (heat sink). Because a heat pump can reverse its function (heating or cooling) each heat exchanger coil can be an evaporator or condenser coil. Various types of heat pumps can be used in conjunction with an electric, gas or oil furnace to obtain an oil or gas add-on heat pump, or electric heat pump.

____1.    Are the heat pumps sealed well enough to stop the refrigerant from being emitted?
____2.    Is the unit quiet (not so noisy)?
____3.    Are the plastic parts and filters outgasing contaminants which can be easily ventilated out?
____4.    Do you have your heat pump serviced annually?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

E.7        Electric Convention Heaters (baseboard or wall type)

Electric baseboard heating systems consists of individually controlled room-by-room convectors. These systems are expensive to operate compared to natural gas. These units are also used as supplementary heating systems.

____1.    Do you keep units unobstructed (furniture should be placed at least 8 cm from units)?
____2.    Are the heated surfaces outgasing contaminants which can be easily ventilated out?
____3.    Are the heaters far enough from the people living in the home that they will not become a potential electromagnetic pollution?
____4.    Do you clean the dust from around the convectors?
____5.    Do you make sure that long curtains are not placed above baseboard heaters (hot air gets trapped between the curtains and window and does not circulate)?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

E.8        Central Forced Air  (units can be electric, fuel fired or heat pump)

A central forced-air system is made up of a furnace with a fan to circulate the heat, supply ducts to deliver warm air to each room, and return air ducts to draw cool air back to the furnace. Furnace operation is controlled by a centrally located thermostat. House air can readily be humidified, filtered, heated or cooled. Conventional furnaces have a low "seasonal efficiency" (the many cycles of starting-up, running and cooling-off, all under different weather conditions, reduce a system's efficiency; the constantly burning pilot light and the chimney heat loss also contribute to a reduced efficiency).

Efficiency has been improved with the introduction of electronic ignition (improves combustion efficiency by 5 to 7 percent by replacing the constantly burning pilot flame with a device that ignites only when the thermostat calls for heat), and automatic flue dampers which reduce heat loss up the chimney by blocking the chimney flue when the furnace is not operating (an increase by 2 to 8 percent depending of the tightness of the damper when closed).

An induced draft fan increases further the efficiency of the furnace to about 75 percent by drawing a controlled amount of combustion air into the furnace. An even greater efficiency can be obtained by adding an extra heat exchanger which further extracts heat from the combustion gases.

____1.    Is the unit emitting fuel fumes and flue gases contamination which can be easily ventilated?
____2.    Is the unit quiet (not so noisy)?
____3.    Is the unit cleaned once a month?
____4.    Are all the duct work taped or caulked at the joints, and are all ducts insulated (especially if they run through cold or cool areas)?
____5.    Are the manual dampers adjusted at the base of the ducts to balance the heat flows through the house, and are they partially closed in unused rooms?
____6.    Once a month, do you vacuum floor grills with a vacuum cleaner, lift off the diffuser cover and vacuum the saddle or register boot?
____7.    Once a month, do you ensure that heat outlets and cold air returns are unobstructed by furniture, carpets, etc.?
____8.    Once a month, do you turn off power and clean or replace air filters?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5


 

E.9        Wood, Oil or Gas Heaters

Wood and coal burning furnaces can have efficiencies around 60 percent but can vary depending upon the heat value and moisture content of the wood or coal being used. The heat exchanger and chimney must be inspected and cleaned regularly, and ashes disposed of.

____1.    Is the unit emitting fuel fumes and combustion gas contaminants which can be easily ventilated?
____2.    Do you inspect and clean pipes and chimney once a month?
____3.    At the beginning or end of the heating season, do you inspect and clean the chimney and furnace of creosote, and do you clean pipes as well?
____4.    Is your gas furnace serviced every year?
____5.    Is your oil heating system serviced once a year?
____6.    Do you empty the ashes and clean the hearth once a week?
____7.    In the Spring and Fall, do you remove the stove top to clean the top of the oven and remove all soot?
____8.    In the Fall, do you clean stove pipe between stove and chimney, and repair or replace any holes?
____9.    If the pilot light on the gas heater goes out, do you relight according to manufacturer's instructions to light it (if the pilot light will not relight, call a specialist)?
____10.    In the Spring or Fall, do you have the chimney sweep and inspected as a maintenance procedure for your oil heater?
____11.    Has your wood-burning appliance been choosen with the appropriate size to meet the heating needs of the house (a stove which is too large for the room will burn at too slow a rate and this may increase the build-up of creosote on the flue)?
____12.    Is the wood stove air-tight (good casting and welding of the appliance allows for maximum control of combustion in the firebox, and minimal air leakage when the unit is not beig used)?
____13.    Do you feed the wood stove with only well-seasoned  fire wood, dried for at least one year (green wood will lead to creosote deposits in the flue)?
____14.    Do you make sure the stove and chimney are installed away from combustible materials such as wood paneling?
____15.    Has your wood stove got a Canadian Standards Association (CSA) or Underwriters'Laboratory of Canada (ULC) label?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5

E.10        Kerosene Heaters

____1.    Do you make sure that your kerosene heater is well vented (they discharge all their noxious combustion products into the home)?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5


 
 

F.   Domestic Water Heating

 

F.        Domestic Water Heating

Domestic hot water heating for homes constitutes a small portion of total energy consumption and, as homes become more energy-efficient, this energy consumption becomes a larger portion. Reducing water heating costs can be achieved by conserving hot water i.e., by using low flow showerheads and faucets, insulating the hot water tank and lines, and reducing the water tank temperature to as low a level as possible. Reducing costs is also achieved by using more efficient water heaters for fuel-fired systems.

____1.    Do you apply energy conserving practices to hot water use?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5


 

G.   Sound and Noise Control

G.        Sound and Noise Control

Noise is a significant pollutant of modern life, contributes to tension, and to psychological and physical deterioration, increases the incidence of heart disease, ulcers, and high blood pressure. Noise affects children and their development at home, produce significant deficiencies in children attention span and learning skills. Noise will interrupt needed deep sleep, promote fatigue, and cause non-reversible hearing loss.

Sound energy is measured in decibel (dB). The smallest sound which can be heard by a person with unimpaired hearing is 0 dB. Sound intensities up to 60 dB are comfortable background levels. Occupational health standards allow only 2 hours of exposure per day to 100 dB noise without ear protection. Noise in excess of 110 dB is very painful and will cause rapid hearing damage.

The most damaging exposure in homes is created by loud music, power tools and appliances, fans, noisy pipes, and urban or industrial noise.

____1.    Do you turn down the music to an acceptable comfortable level?
____2.    Do you wear ear protection when operating tools?
____3.    Do you wear ear protectors for household work (good ones are the snug fitting earmuff types available at hardware or safety supply stores)?
____4.    Are you doing something to control noise in the building:
                *    Reflected or absorptive devices such as solid walls, double windows, trees, hedges, fences, etc.;
                *    Soft surfaces to absorb noise entering a room or is generated there; and
                *    Special resilient wall and ceiling treatments.
____5.    Have you masked unavoidable noise by more pleasant sounds such as the sound of falling water?
____6.    Have you built/grown vegetation, dense hedges, trees, and fencing to absorb noise from the street?
____7.    Are windows double or triple glass?
____8.    Is ventilation better by closing windows facing the street (the noiseproofing effect of the wall is not lost by closing windows)?
____9.    Are there thick rugs and heavy drapes installed as absorption surfaces?
____10.    Is there an absorptive ceiling such as acoustical tile or rough plaster?
____11.    Is the ceiling fastened to resilient bars (thin metal strips)?
____12.    Are your household appliances (washer, dryer, refrigerator) on concrete floors?
____13.    Or have they been isolated with small rubber cushions placed under the feet to reduce noise?
____14.    Are the ducts securely fastened with screws and braced against vibration?
____15.    Has water hammer (a plumbing noise from pipes) been eliminated by installing air cushions at critical locations such as washer taps?
____16.    Has transmission of pipe noise been reduced by using suspension type straps and oversize holes where pipes pass through framing?
 
Sub-section %    =    Total number of points for the subsection     x     100%
                           Total number of questions for the sub-section               5


 
 

Section 3.5.2 Assessment Scoring

                                     =       GESDI     for this section

This value of GESDI is then added to the values in the other sections of this assessment report. The total value for GESDI is the GESDI for the home and the community it belongs to.